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Coach's Corner

Past Articles:

"The Crate And House Training"

"Junior Handling By Emily Dorma"


Coach's Corner

The Crate And House Training

By MistyTrails Havanese, 

http://www.elitehavanese.com

Dogs learn to love their crate as their very own special place.  It becomes a familiar and secure place for them whether at home, in the car, at a motel or even at a dog show.  The crate should be large enough for the adult dog to stand, sit and stretch out.  However for a puppy, it is ideal to start off with a smaller crate, or blocking off one end, thus stopping it from  using one end for sleeping and the other for eliminating.

A key principle is to always carry on with what the dog has already been  taught:  >>you don't mess where you eat and sleep<<  Dogs that have been kept in one big pen are harder to housetrain simply because they've been forced to soil their living/sleeping quarters.  

Place crate in an area so that the dog is with you and part of family activities, even just as an observer.  Do not put the crate in the basement.  Place the crate in the kitchen or family room-move the crate around with you; my puppies have been taught there is a difference from 3 weeks on.  At night time the crate should go in your bedroom as this will not only provide comfort for the puppy, but your own sleeping patterns will encourage the pup to slumber in sync with yourself.  Also if there is any fussing you are there to deal with it, simply with a tap on the cage and a command such as "That's Enough!" or "No Bark!".  However, I have on occasion (with a very vocal pup) put it on the other side of the house for the first night or two.

I will never never remove a pup from the crate when it is fussing, as this teaches the pup that if it fusses enough it can  come out.  It's along the same lines as spoiling a young child and the pup will think that it is rewarded for bad behavior.   I wait for the fussing to stop for about 5 minutes before taking it out, and not with a big welcome.  

You can also give the pup a special chew toy or treat, just for when it is in the crate.  Also lots of praise when it's inside is a good practice along with lengthening the periods of time that you leave it in there.  Your crate routine should begin as soon as you bring your puppy home.  Close the puppy in the crate for regular one to two hour intervals, and anytime it must be left alone it should be for up to three or four hours.  

Remember: Putting your dog into a crate does not by itself housetrain a dog.  It has already been paper trained and knows not to soil it's living quarters, but to be successful you want to prevent your puppy from making mistakes.  Many people punish a dog for messing in the house, but virtually ignore the good behavior when they eliminate outside.  All this does is provide you a dog that learns it is only bad to mess in the house when the owner is present.  With this you should also never clean up a mess when the puppy is watching.  To prevent mistakes, don't let you pup have run of the house!  It needs 100% active supervision, and if you must leave the room, even for a phone call, crate the pup or take it with you.

The real reason for crate training, aside from preventing problems, is to help you predict when the pup will need to eliminate, so you can take it to the correct spot.  The first step is to start a regular feeding schedule.  Confine the pup for 10 to 15 minutes after eating, then take it to the elimination spot.  I say "Go Pee", they do understand this and will learn to pee on command.  Make very sure to PRAISE the pup after they eliminate.  Then take them back in and play with them, or if they prefer outside play then do that, or go for a walk maybe (only after second set of shots though).  If the pup really likes it outside, and you continually take it inside after eliminating, they will learn to hold it....to extend it's outside time.  If you plan to take it for a walk, then the pup should do it's eliminating at home before you go.  Many people take their pups for a walk to eliminate, and then once finished they bring the dog home.  This only sends the message that you are cutting the walk short because of the elimination.  If you want to go for a walk right away instead of waiting for the pup to eliminate that's ok, but be sure that if the dog does go poop, don't take it home right away. 

After a 1/2 hour of play, crate the pup for a nap.  Every hour (give or take with age) take it out for a pee.  If the pup pees give it play time, if not then back into the crate.  Just remember, Prevention Of Mistakes, And Rewarding Of Good Behavior.

6 weeks-  should hold for 1 hour

a two month pup- should have 2-3 hours of control

3 months- up to 4 hours

4 months and older- 5 hours

Many young dogs can go all night at 3 months.  Always take the puppy out the same door-the one that you are going to want it to signal at- and make the pup walk on it's own, DO NOT CARRY IT.  Bells work great for some owners, hang bells on the door and give them a kick every time you open the door.  Havanese can be quiet, and just stand at the door looking at it.  Some may let out a little yip, but for the most part they rely on you to see them standing at the door, so bells can be a marvelous tool.  They will learn to swat at them when they want outside, other's may use doggy doors, but a young pup can never be sent out to pee.  It must be taken out by it's owner.  Also, remember to limit water when house training to 5 big drinks a day.  An open bowl of water and 15 small drinks means you need to outguess 15 small pees, so it is much easier to have 5 bigger pees.

Bev Dorma, owner of Misty Trails Havanese, has been an experienced dog breeder
for over 20 years.  She currently lives with her husband and two children in Cobble
Hill, BC, where she raises exceptional Havanese for both show and companionship.

For More Info. On This topic, Visit The Dog Breed Info Center  http://www.dogbreedinfo.com


For more information, email Seantiago Havanese at:
info@seantiagohavanese.com